"I'm not on my own because I've been sitting crying into a handkerchief or apron over a lack of interested men. I've been made every offer imaginable over the years. Men offer themselves, their sons . . . drunk fathers sometimes call me up and say things like: 'Do you need a farmhand?' 'I can lift the hay bales' 'I can repair your tractors'. . ." Heida is a solitary farmer with a flock of 500 sheep in a remorseless area bordering Iceland's highlands. It's known as the End of the World. One of her nearest neighbors is Iceland's most notorious volcano, Katla, which has periodically driven away the inhabitants of Lj